I'm always on the lookout for new crafts and hobbies, especially
ones that involve presenting photographs in a novel way. I've
noticed one craft that stores seem to be pushing as the "next
big thing" in picture presentations is this craft where
you mount a picture to a tile board and glaze it with what
appears to be a polymer glaze. The end result is something
that looks like ceramic tile. I thought that this might be
an interesting thing to do with some of my photographs, so
I bought one of these kits to see how hard it is.
The
kit came with a 7x7 inch piece of fiberboard with grooves
on one side, as well as some sanding and cleaning supplies
and a small box of the polymer glaze. Most importantly, the
kit came with a decent set of instructions. The basic idea
of the project was pretty easy. First, you sand and paint
the board, then you glue your picture on. Finally, you coat
it with the polymer coating to create the glazed effect (and
also to waterproof and provide heat resistance to the finished
piece).
Although I bought the kit last Winter, I had to wait until
the weather improved because the optimal temperature for using
the polymer glaze is about 70 degrees, plus I needed a well-ventilated
area to pour it. Unfortunately, since then I forgot how much
I paid for the thing, which is going to seriously affect any
cost-benefit analysis I want to do. Anyway, for those of us
in cold climates, this is clearly a summer project, so if
this is the sort of thing you want to make as a Christmas
gift or for a Winter birthday, you're going to have to engage
in some serious early planning. On the bright side, I didn't
find the process particularly time consuming- it took me only
a couple of hours spread out over a weekend to finish.
One challenge for a project of this type was picture selection.
What makes this project neat is the faux-tile grooves running
through it, but those very grooves also chop up a picture
into four sections- it's like looking out
a window with a wooden frame. The instructions recommended
against pictures with faces or small details, since the process
of cutting the photo can distort it. I would imagine any photo
with a center focal point wouldn't work, either, since the
grooves would obscure it. You will also want a photo that
has something going on in all four quadrants, so that each
individual tile is interesting to look at.
I figure this type of project lends itself better to patterns
or textures rather than to actual photos, so I used a picture
I took of a bed of Fall leaves. It was busy in all four quadrants,
and there's no real focal point for the grooves to get in
the way of. I enhanced the photo by running it through a red
filter in my imaging software to make it more vivid, and so
it would better match the red spray paint I was using to paint
the fiberboard with. I had already chosen red as my paint
color because, basically, that was the only color I had available
without going to the store. That was the reason I went with
an Autumn theme in the first place. The instructions suggested
that I painted the tile board the color of the darkest prevalent
color in the photo, so I made sure the darkest prevalent color
would be red.
After the paint dried, I printed and cut my photograph using
my chop-style paper cutter. This part required some measuring
before cutting, which I invariably screw up. The grooves on
the board went right down the middle of each side and were
2/16ths of an inch, thick. So, I cut each corner to be 3 7/16ths
by 3 7/16ths inch.
Well, the second time, I cut them that size, the first time
I cut them 3 7/8ths X 3 7/8ths and had some space left up
top. One thing I had to make sure I did since I was working
with a pattern is to remember which sides line up, because
I wanted to make it look like the pattern continued from one
tile to the next tile. After I cut the pieces, I glued them
to the board. After gluing them on, I started to think that
maybe I should've stayed with the original cut I made, because
my pieces hung very slightly over the edges of the board,
which was somewhat messy looking.
The next day, I was ready to pour on the polymer glaze. The
kit came with rubber gloves, and the instructions on the glaze
(or clear-coat, really) suggested that I use safety goggles
and work in a well-ventilated area. These aren't typically
comforting instructions for me, because I have an aversion
to using strong chemicals. Still, it seems most clear-coats
are rather unpleasant to work with, and I was looking to use
a coat that would be waterproof and heat-resistant, so I decided
to try it out, anyways. I put on the safety gear, mixed the
two bottles of liquid in the kit thoroughly for a few minutes
and poured it on top of the tile board. It actually was pretty
easy to spread around- I used a piece of heavy paper. The
major issue was that all that mixing created a ton of bubbles.
This was expected, and the instructions suggested I blow on
them, pop them with something, or push them off the edge.
I took care of some of the bubbles but was eventually overwhelmed.
The instructions recommend elevating the tile board on a set
of paper cups so the excess polymer would drip right off.
I did that and the excess did drip off for awhile. What the
instructions didn't say was that you should somehow wipe or
spread out those drips before they harden, or you'll get little
plastic hardened drops that you later have to sand or knife
off somehow.
To create the actual tiling effect, ten minutes after I poured
the polymer I took a piece of paper and ran it a few times
down the grooves. After that, I left the tile board alone
and out of the way for a full day and a half while the polymer
coating finished hardening. The hardened finish is clear and
pretty durable, except that I left a few bubbles in it which
show up if you look closely. In the end, though, the tile
board really does appear to look like real tile. The clear
polymer coat gives the top of the craft a rather professional
look. From above, it doesn't look handmade at all.
From the sides, however, it doesn't look as good. The examples
I've seen in stores show the sides glazed like the top, but
I'm uncertain on how they were able to glaze the sides. The
instructions don't really mention how to handle the sides
at all. My sides had a few polymer drips, especially around
the grooves. A frame of some sort can cover up the sides,
providing one can put together a 7x7 frame of comparable thickness.
I think they might sell matching frames near these tile kits
at the store. In any case, without some sort of treatment
or frame, the wooden sides of the tile board break the illusion
of real tile that the top so accurately creates.
Despite this, I thought the end product was pretty sharp,
and overall, I was happy with this project. I showed my tile
board to some friends, and most thought it looked pretty good.
The tiling effect is rather neat, but I think the real breakthrough
from this experiment is learning to use the polymer coating.
The coating is heat resistant and waterproof, which may allow
me to expand beyond wall coverings and produce coasters and
trivets, which are much more functional as gifts. In fact,
I was at a crafts store recently and now they are selling
fiberboard trays and coaster sets for this type of project.
One friend of mine suggested another possible use of this
project is to create a custom back splash in a kitchen or
bathroom- in other words, actually use this fake tile as fake
tile.
Cost-wise, this project wasn't that bad- the tile fiberboard
appears to be a little pricey, but if you're not interested
in faking tile and more interested in just having polymer-coated
items, you can probably use any sort of backing. The polymer
itself was about $6 for a kit that covers a square foot, so
it's a little expensive, too. You can get larger kits that
cover up to 16 square feet for $21, or $1.31 per square foot.
All the other items involved were common items like spray
paint and sandpaper. Next time I try a project like this one,
I'll try to run some decent cost analysis, but just as a craft
you can probably get the cost down to under $10 an item, and
if you were making larger batches I think it's feasible to
get below $5 per 7x7in. item. So, if there's ten people on
your Christmas list you could probably give them all a nice
trivet for $50 and four hours of your time over the course
of a warm weekend.
I'll probably explore this type of craft again in the future,
as long as the warm weather holds...
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